Upgraded the fuse boards to blade fuses this lunchtime, no more fuses dropping out and lights working intermittently 😀
just got 2 x 8 way blade fuse holders for £5 each plus a big box of fuses for £8ish (200 fuses).
all you need to do is remove the mount plate and take the fuse holders out through the back then cut the wires from the back of the holders (one at a time so you don’t mix them up, as clolse to the old fuse holder as posible), crimp on a spade end and plug into the rear of the new fuse holder.

2 things the MOT tester failed her on were the leaking swivel oil seals and the condition of the brakes so the front hubs needed stripping down to swap over the parts.

19 years of rust has taken a good hold of every single nut and bolt on the 110, brakes included, it took 2 hours to take out the 4 bolts holding in the calipers.

The quick way to drain the brake fluid!! Well all the brake pipes are bing replaced so why bother undoing sized nuts.

This particular nut took 1 1/2 hours to take off and resulted in 2 broken sockets, in the end I had to hammer a 12mm socket onto the very rounded head to get it off.

Next up were the drive plates on the hubs, suprise suprise a bolt sheared off, luckily leaving an inch or so sticking out so should come out faily easily.

Then the driveshafts.

Then the hubs themselves

The view inside the swivel/axle tube

Bits taken off so far, Drive plate on the left, bearings and the stub axle.

Quick tip if you are removing the disks, turn the hub upside down and put it in the wheel with the studs in the holes on the wheel, holds the hub firm so you can undo the bolts holding the disk on.

Thats it for now, it started raining again.

Swivel assembly with the seal removed, the seal is retained by the plate on the left

Assembly back on the axle

Driveshaft back in

CV cover plate and mud shield back on

Just waiting for the hub to go on

Hub back on, just need to put the calipers on and its done :o)

The calipers had been left with worn pads in them which ment the pistons were rotten

A set of pistons and new seals will have them back as new

Caliper minus the pistons

Caliper with new pistons and seals fitted, quite an easy job, just remember to lube the pistons when you put them in

New pistons, seals, bleed nipples, pads & disks, plus plenty of coppaslip

Hubs & brakes are all done except for fitting the flexi hoses & bleeding.

The dreaded rust has got hold of the chassis, I needed to replace the bulkhead outriggers with new ones

The front side of both outriggers was holed and paper thin, not worth repairing as they are easy to get at with the bulkhead off

Drivers side one has the fuel filter and fuel lines on it, both of which I am replacing so will have to move them out of the way before setting about it with the angle grinder.

Nearside one chopped off

Havent welded for years but luckily it soon came back, looks okay apart from the top front bit where I managed to put a line of weld in the wrong place.

Near side finished, ready for paint.
Both outriggers are now fitted and painted ready for the bulkhead. I have bought some new fuel hose as the old stuff was really rotten.

I managed to source a late TD5 bulkhead in very good condition with all the fittings still on. I need to strip out the loom and brake lines and fit the old loom from the ’86 bulkhead and new brake lines.

Seems to be alot of wires in the later 110’s

New style fuse panel

Electronic throttle from a TD5

Loom removed, took half a day to remove the dash and take the loom out in one piece (I have managed to sell the loom to someone doing a TD5 upgrade on a 200 TDI Landy)

The loom and fuse panel

The old loom fitted and dash back on, seemed to fit okay, just hope it all works when wired back in!

Lifting in was actually quite easy with 3 people although the bulkhead was very heavy with all the stuff attached.

Those sill channels I cut out to get the old bulkhead out were impossible to get hold of, I waited 3 weeks for parts to arrive then gave up and welded the old ones back in.

First big mistake putting the bulkhead in, fixing the floor down before the doors were on, turns out the bulkhead was leaning back, more on this later.

I used an external window frame sealent to seal the floor down

The steering wheel nut, 6 weeks to track one down, turns out my old bulkhead had a different thread on it so I couldn’t use that one, Land Rover didn’t have one, I finally managed to track one down from a breakers but not after cancelling one MOT due to no steering wheel!

Bye bye old bulkhead 😥

I fitted up the wings only to find the doors didn’t close! Seems the bulkhead was leaning back about 1/2 an inch, after much head scratching I came up with the following.

I loosened all the bolts holding the wings and bulkhead to the chassis and pulled it upright will ratchet straps on each side and tightened everything down. I now have 35in door gaps top and bottom of the bulkhead.

The bulkhead has rusted away at the top and been filled with fibreglass and filler, only solution is replacement.
You cant even open the vents as they are covered over in filler!

As the bonnet was coming off I rubbed down the steel frame and painted it with red oxide.

Right wing came off first, every bolt was siezed up, took about 3 hours to get off (hey it is my first attempt!)
It looked like rain so I put the bonnet back on for now.

Whoever filled up the bulkhead should be shot!

Right wing off

All the bolts on the left wing were siezed up, most of them broke or required cutting off

This nut developed a nice round shape, time for the hacksaw

Finally 2 wings off, just the stripdown of the bulkhead to go

Hmmm, rust, found 2 holes in the passenger bulkhead outrigger, they aren’t too expensive so I think I will replace it rather than repair it.

While I was at it decided to paint the chassis with red oxide primer, most of it is on my hands.

Old wiring loom needs to come out and go into the new bulkhead

top tip for removing steering lock, drill a 4mm hole in the old stud and hammer in a 6mm torque bit, you can then wind the stud out.

All the filler came out of both sides of the bulkhead while I was drilling out the door hinge screws

Sills coming out! I need new ones and wanted the old ones out quick as they stop the bulkhead lifting out so I just cut the end off.

Bulkhead out!!

The floor and gearbox covers need to come out to get the bulkhead out.