Feck me diesels are silly, seems I have an air leak in the diesel delivery line somewhere, and cheapskate Jeep didn’t install a lift pump in the tank so the slightest air leak results in a no start. There is a section of the fuel line over the tank with some quick release clips that leak air that will get replaced & are US jeepers install an electric lift pump at the same time. Seems there is a power feed for one & the gubbins in the ECU to run it on ignition on for 20 secs then constantly once the engine is running. They just saved some $ and didn’t install one 🙁

1st part done. Replaced the crappy tank lines with thier quick clips with new diesel lines with hose clips. Getting the tank access plate off was the hardest job, removing the rear carpet & chipping away all the frame sealer over the nuts took ages.

Where the lines meet the solid pipe. Will mount the electric pump here.

Hose all replaced, return is 7mm and feed is 8mm, put 2 clips on the return just to be safe.

Bled up okay, will see if air gets in now. Still plan to fit the electric pump even if replacing these pipes fixes it.

Used a Facet Posi-flo one in the end, 7psi & 36 gallons/hour.

Bolted the pump to the chassis rail in front of the tank, seared the back with RTV sealant to quieten it down & I think the bolts werent neaded, sealant did a good job of glueing it to the rail.

Seems there are some differences to the write ups on the web and what wiring we have on export Jeeps.

There are some wiring differences as below:

The feed under the rear left passenger seat is in connector C306 and is the dark green/while lead on pin 3

It doesn’t go anywhere so I cut it before the connector and soldered a spade connector to it which connects to the +ve for the pump, there is a handy grommet under the rear left passenger seat to run the wire to the outside for the pump

Also, feed A141 stops dead at connector C102 which is down by the bonnet release. I took a feed from the big white connector next to it, C100, and spliced off the feed into pin 54 (plain white wire) to the dark green/white that goes into C102. This is the blower motor relay feed which is only activated with the ignition on and is covered by a 10amp fuse. There is no feed that runs for 20 seconds then off unless ignition on the earlier exports so the pump is always on with ignition.

Also fitted a glass filter before the filter head, mounted it slightly higher than the filter so I can see when it gets air in again. Its only tie wrapped up so when bleeding the system through it was below the bleed screw of the filter head to get the air out. Bleeding it up is dead easy, ignition on, wait 10 seconds and then CAREFULY open the air bleed screw, air & diesel come out at 7psi =D>

So far it works, need to give it a few days of cold weather to see if it cures the problem.

There is a little switch in the rear door handle that releases the glass which sometimes fails. Basically the wires come off the switch inside that require soldering back on. Switch is in the door handle that needs taking off the door to fix (see bottom picture)

If you look at his picture here, this is what a broken switch looks like removed from the door handle

You can see the contacts the wires have broken off, I just removed the top rubber cover, cleaned & resoldered the wires & replaced the rubber cover by covering the wires in glue from a hot glue gun

There is a slight mistake on that picture as I didn’t set the wires coming out at 90deg to the switch so I had to cut away at it to reposition the wires.
:banghead:

I didn’t bother with the metal clip when refitting the switch, just glued it in, hopefully the glue will stop the moisture getting in the switch. If it fails again it is easy enough to cut the switch out, the glue isn’t that strong.

If your rear wiper has stopped working or is not parking correctly try this fix before you go replaceing the motor unit.

First off remove the wiper unit from your jeep, basically the following:
remove the door inner trim
remove the wiper arm
CAREFULLY prise off the plastic outer cover where the wiper arm comes through the door to get at the retaining nut
remove outer retaining nut
unplug loom from motor
remove 2 10mm nuts on top of door (you may have to remove the window latch loom plugs to do this.

Then you can manouver the wiper box/motor out of the door.

Once out you have to remove the cover for the contoller unit to get at all 3 bolts holding it onto the gearbox. It takes a bit of effot to lever off, be careful not to break the 3 plastic retaining tabs.
Once off you should see this:

Remove the 3 silver bolts (torq 25) and CAREFULLY ease the controller board up from the gearbox. The motor power leads go through the board and are fixed and aren’t very flexible, they will break if you lift the board to far up. I lifted mine about 45deg from the gearbox to get at the wiper switch under it. This is what you will see.

On mine the middle wiper hasn’t had good contact with the disc & has causes arcing. Wipe the grease of with paper towel and clean the wiper contacts and the disc contact until they are shiney again, make sure the contacts on the end of the springy wipers are good and clean and you have removed any dark tracks from the disc contact. I used a plastic pan scourer to do this. It is easier if you put something behind the wiper contacts to stop them bending flat as you clean them (I used a spanner under them)

After cleaning

Wipe up any debris and regrease the contacts and disc. Re assemble & refit and hopefully you will have a working rear wiper again.

Jeep is suffering from POS (previous owner syndrome). Filter bleed screw has been mashed up & is leaking air, managed to get a good replacement from ebay so swapping out the housing & fitting a new filter at the same time

Old housing, note the epoxy resin on the top screw

new housing

filter

fuel heater/bottom bowl

all assembled ready for fitting

They get covered in crap thanks to the EGR valve being open, here is before

here is after some hot soapy water

sensor can see the air now